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NY_Rob

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Tim-in-CA

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Definitely working now :)
Great ... I just might have to give this a try as well. The occasional VD even with a Battery Tender attached is still frustrating!!
 

kroe

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Appreciate the creative thinking in this thread.

Can the trickle charger be plugged in to the vehicle's own 120v outlets? It looks like the 120v is powered by the HV battery - there would be conversion loss 400VDC-->120VAC-->12VDC but for a trickle charger it might not be enough to matter and if it avoids the vehicle needing to power on to charge the 12v...

Maybe this is what people are doing already?
 

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Appreciate the creative thinking in this thread.

Can the trickle charger be plugged in to the vehicle's own 120v outlets? It looks like the 120v is powered by the HV battery - there would be conversion loss 400VDC-->120VAC-->12VDC but for a trickle charger it might not be enough to matter and if it avoids the vehicle needing to power on to charge the 12v...

Maybe this is what people are doing already?
It would defeat the purpose since the vehicle would stay awake and use extra power to run the inverter.
 

mudito

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It would defeat the purpose since the vehicle would stay awake and use extra power to run the inverter.
Correct. Inefficient and costing more watts in total
 

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MacO512

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Great thread, thanks everyone!

I had a bricked Tesla Model Y over the weekend with both batteries draining to 0% and it was a MAJOR pain in the butt to resolve while traveling. So I'm trying to be proactive with my R1S if there is ever a 12v failure. Especially on road trips or camping or such.

I bought a tool kit holder for the rear license plate so that will let me open the frunk mechanically with no 12v power. I have a 2024 R1S single 12v battery.

I just got to decide what to keep in the frunk for emergencies.
  1. The battery booster pack I now keep in my Tesla wont have enough amps for long enough to boot the Rivian. From another thread here I'm thinking of using a LIFEPO battery and jumper cables that can give the necessary 30a to boot the Rivian. The jumper cables would also be a 2nd backup to use an ICE vehicle if my LFP 12v doesn't work. I guess the trick is how do I keep this LFP charged. I could just charge it before trips.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N9BBS68?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
  2. The other battery selection would be the Ohmmu Rivian replacement and then could even just replace the stock battery with it if needed in a failure.
  3. I have been looking at installing some sort of DC-DC charger so it keeps that LFP 12v always at full charge.
    1. If I had a 12v outlet in the frunk that would work great as it only charges when the vehicles is waked (desired behavior). But my vehicle doesn't have this outlet nor do I see the extra wires some people have in a harness for easily adding that.
  4. Tending the battery is an interesting idea - good tending solutions posted is to just have a separate tender hooded up to a powerbank by the OBD port. This would be independent of any spare frunk battery. Could plug in powerbank to vehicle AC so it automatically charges when the vehicles is awake - then keeps the Rivian 12v tended when asleep.
  5. However I was trying to plan a way to have a spare battery ALSO BE A TENDER. So maybe it would tend until it gets to 50% charge or such. Then that spare charges when the Rivian wakes. This would involve at least one DC-DC converter, probably a smart switch, maybe more - but that could start to get exponentially complicated.
Any feedback is appreciated.
 

mkhuffman

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Great thread, thanks everyone!

I had a bricked Tesla Model Y over the weekend with both batteries draining to 0% and it was a MAJOR pain in the butt to resolve while traveling. So I'm trying to be proactive with my R1S if there is ever a 12v failure. Especially on road trips or camping or such.

I bought a tool kit holder for the rear license plate so that will let me open the frunk mechanically with no 12v power. I have a 2024 R1S single 12v battery.

I just got to decide what to keep in the frunk for emergencies.
  1. The battery booster pack I now keep in my Tesla wont have enough amps for long enough to boot the Rivian. From another thread here I'm thinking of using a LIFEPO battery and jumper cables that can give the necessary 30a to boot the Rivian. The jumper cables would also be a 2nd backup to use an ICE vehicle if my LFP 12v doesn't work. I guess the trick is how do I keep this LFP charged. I could just charge it before trips.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N9BBS68?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
  2. The other battery selection would be the Ohmmu Rivian replacement and then could even just replace the stock battery with it if needed in a failure.
  3. I have been looking at installing some sort of DC-DC charger so it keeps that LFP 12v always at full charge.
    1. If I had a 12v outlet in the frunk that would work great as it only charges when the vehicles is waked (desired behavior). But my vehicle doesn't have this outlet nor do I see the extra wires some people have in a harness for easily adding that.
  4. Tending the battery is an interesting idea - good tending solutions posted is to just have a separate tender hooded up to a powerbank by the OBD port. This would be independent of any spare frunk battery. Could plug in powerbank to vehicle AC so it automatically charges when the vehicles is awake - then keeps the Rivian 12v tended when asleep.
  5. However I was trying to plan a way to have a spare battery ALSO BE A TENDER. So maybe it would tend until it gets to 50% charge or such. Then that spare charges when the Rivian wakes. This would involve at least one DC-DC converter, probably a smart switch, maybe more - but that could start to get exponentially complicated.
Any feedback is appreciated.
I like the idea of an emergency frunk opening solution. Can you post pictures and links regarding how you did it?

The boosters hold power for a long time, but you are right about them slowing draining down. You don't want it to be low when you need it the most. Personally, I would just get one big enough to jump the battery and forgo the elaborate charging system. I have one that was able to jump my old Ford Expedition, but not sure if it would work on my R1T or not.
 

mudito

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I like the idea of an emergency frunk opening solution. Can you post pictures and links regarding how you did it?

The boosters hold power for a long time, but you are right about them slowing draining down. You don't want it to be low when you need it the most. Personally, I would just get one big enough to jump the battery and forgo the elaborate charging system. I have one that was able to jump my old Ford Expedition, but not sure if it would work on my R1T or not.
My NOCO Boost X GBX75 booster was only able to power my R1T enough for me to unlock the doors (I needed to retrieve my laptop from it so I could work!) when connected to the trailer hitch. I've heard from other forum members that when connected directly to the 12V battery, it should "barely" make it to a full power-on cycle.

Just FYI :)

I now have a kit in my trailer hitch with a few tools to open the frunk on where I store the NOCO BoostX plus a few other things just in case of an emergency :)

Trailer Hitch Storage
Trailer Hitch Pin
LowProfile Torx Toolset

I also put a microfiber rug around the tools to avoid having them rattling in there :)
 

mudito

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FYI!
Rivian updated their Owner's Manual with more detailed instructions for 12V jump start, I just made a post here, give it a read!
 

MacO512

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I like the idea of an emergency frunk opening solution. Can you post pictures and links regarding how you did it?

The boosters hold power for a long time, but you are right about them slowing draining down. You don't want it to be low when you need it the most. Personally, I would just get one big enough to jump the battery and forgo the elaborate charging system. I have one that was able to jump my old Ford Expedition, but not sure if it would work on my R1T or not.
Manually opening the frunk is in p36 of tow operators guide
https://rivian.com/support/article/r1-tow-operator-guide

This is the tool holder I bought for the license plate the store is in a posters sig here
https://www.xcdshop.com/product/lpths/

Unfortunately 30a is too large of a load for battery jump starting packs. Crazy that the R1 need more than an ICE vehicle. Although ICE needs much more CCA it's only for less than 1second while the R1 need 30a for much longer. That led me to the 30ah lifepo solution (8lbs)
 

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MacO512

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My NOCO Boost X GBX75 booster was only able to power my R1T enough for me to unlock the doors (I needed to retrieve my laptop from it so I could work!) when connected to the trailer hitch. I've heard from other forum members that when connected directly to the 12V battery, it should "barely" make it to a full power-on cycle.

Just FYI :)

I now have a kit in my trailer hitch with a few tools to open the frunk on where I store the NOCO BoostX plus a few other things just in case of an emergency :)

Trailer Hitch Storage
Trailer Hitch Pin
LowProfile Torx Toolset

I also put a microfiber rug around the tools to avoid having them rattling in there :)
So does this go into the hitch far enough that you can put the trim cover back on? If so that's a good solution, I had assumed the storage sticker out of the hitch.
 

MacO512

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FYI!
Rivian updated their Owner's Manual with more detailed instructions for 12V jump start, I just made a post here, give it a read!
Thanks. Yeah I'm thinking about printing the tow operators pages and store in the frunk.
 

mudito

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So does this go into the hitch far enough that you can put the trim cover back on? If so that's a good solution, I had assumed the storage sticker out of the hitch.
100% concealed. I have the trim cover installed and looks perfect. It's being there for a few months already 😊😉
 

Tim-in-CA

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Thanks. Yeah I'm thinking about printing the tow operators pages and store in the frunk.
I did that right away as your random tow truck driver may not know how to properly tow the vehicle. Bookmark it on your phone as well
 

kroe

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Correct. Inefficient and costing more watts in total
Annoying, was hoping the 120v did not require the entire vehicle to wake - but guess it does. There must be some way to power a trickle charger from the HV pack...
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