12V Battery Replacement Megathread

[mitchman]

What are the Rivian options and costs? Can you purchase (how much) the battery from Rivian and DIY the installation? What does Rivian charge for the battery installed?

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[Nixapatfan]

What are the Rivian options and costs? Can you purchase (how much) the battery from Rivian and DIY the installation? What does Rivian charge for the battery installed?

No DIY according to Rivian as 12v fault clearing requires computer access. Though there is an option in ride menu to reset but reports on the forum are inconclusive on if it works or not.

Battery availability is a maybe, depends on the service rep, but generally not an option.

About $700 installed for Gen1

 

[Steve A.]

Nothing with the Rivian battery is any different than any vehicle I've had over the past 30 years.

I live in ATL, previously in Houston and South Florida. I'm used to replacing batteries in my vehicles, well regularly every 3-7 years when the climate cooked them. The key is to get warning and when replacing buy a solid battery usually $300-$400. I still use the Antigravity tracker device on all my vehicles to get the warning I need to have them replaced before I'm stranded.

I have no problem having Rivian replace the one in my R1T as Lexus would replace in our Lexus's, Ford replaced the Fords and Honda replaced the Honda's. I'd buy a battery off Amazon or get the best one I could get locally (interstate usually) and put it in the trunk for them to switch out.

FWIW same for all the motorcycles I've had over the years, climate cooks them and usually grabbed an Odyssey battery.

Nothing? Really? Well, in the 40+ years that I've owned 18+ vehicles (Fords, Lincolns, Audis, Porsche, Cadilac), I've never spent more than $300 for a 12V battery, never had one fail w/o notice, never had one last less than 3 years, never had any problems getting into the vehicle when it was dead, and never took more than 30 mins to replace myself after running down the street to the local auto parts shop to buy one off the shelf.

After only 8 months, my 2023 Rivian R1S failed w/o notice on a Friday evening @6pm when I walked out from work to drive home and I couldn't open the doors. When the 1st tow truck driver showed up and tried to jump it, at least I could open the driver's side door, but that as all the jump accomplished. Then he said the other tow truck driver was the only one who had the special tool to unlock the rear brakes and was the only one who had done it before. Since it was late and my daughter was on her way to pick me up from home (an hour away), and since I was going into work Saturday morning anyway, I told him he could just come back Saturday morning.

So, I went home and tried to start my 2014 Ford Expedition w/ 200k+ miles on it but that 12V battery was dead since I hadn't started it in weeks. Consequently, I went in the garage and got my 12V booster pack but that was dead, so I plugged it in to charge it but it was dead since I hadn't used it months. Finally, I ran down the street to the local AutoZone bought a new 12V battery for the Expedition for $250 and a new 2500A Lithium booster pack for $299 for future use, then went home, replaced the Expedition 12V in < 30 mins and drove it to work Saturday.

Saturday morning, when the tow truck driver returned, he couldn't get under the rear to use the tool to unlock the rear brakes, since I always have it in lowest ride height. So he called the other tow truck driver who had experience toweing a Rivian before and after he showed up an hour later, he couldn't get under the rear eiher, so he just ended up hammering some plastic skids under the rear tires and dragged it onto the flatbed and towed it the 90 mins to the Gaithersburg Rivian SC.

To make a long-story short, the SC didn't complete my 12V replacement until Tuesday am. So then, my daughter drove me the 2+ hrs from my house to the SC where I picked it up and then drove the 90+ mins to work from there.

All told, if it wasn't under warranty, accoriding to the Rivian SC invoice, it would have cost $900 to replace it and another $200 for the tow which is VERY DIFFEREENT FROM ANY OTHER ICE 12V REPLACEMENT EXPERIENCE!

Then a year later, Rivian replaced my 12V battery again during their not-a-recall-campaign. SMH

Just one of MANY examples of how DIY repair was never a Rivian design goal.

Hopefully, Scout delivers on their promise to deliver EVs and EREVs that are 80% driveway DIY repairable.

 

[Steve A.]

No DIY according to Rivian as 12v fault clearing requires computer access. Though there is an option in ride menu to reset but reports on the forum are inconclusive on if it works or not.

Battery availability is a maybe, depends on the service rep, but generally not an option.

About $700 installed for Gen1

Unless the cost went down in the last 2 years, according to my SC invoice, it would have cost me $900 for my 2023 Gen 1 R1S, if not under warranty and then another $200 for the tow.

 

[Zoidz]

Nothing with the Rivian battery is any different than any vehicle I've had over the past 30 years.

I live in ATL, previously in Houston and South Florida. I'm used to replacing batteries in my vehicles, well regularly every 3-7 years when the climate cooked them. The key is to get warning and when replacing buy a solid battery usually $300-$400. I still use the Antigravity tracker device on all my vehicles to get the warning I need to have them replaced before I'm stranded.

I have no problem having Rivian replace the one in my R1T as Lexus would replace in our Lexus's, Ford replaced the Fords and Honda replaced the Honda's. I'd buy a battery off Amazon or get the best one I could get locally (interstate usually) and put it in the trunk for them to switch out.

FWIW same for all the motorcycles I've had over the years, climate cooks them and usually grabbed an Odyssey battery.

There is a major difference. Rivian has documented that they require a deep cycle battery. None of the vehicles you owned in the past 30 years needed or came with a deep cycle battery. Regular batteries will be quickly depleted and then damaged in deep cycle applications.

 

[pehalvan]

Got the error on the app a week ago(we were out of country when we got the error) and the car to replace the 12v battery. Unfortunately it's out of warranty(41k miles early 23 model R1S) so had to pay 935$ out of pocket. Quick research online didn't give me the confidence to do it myself so ended up getting it done by the Rivian service center. Failed after 2.5 years of ownership.

So much for the "low-maintenance" cost for EVs.

 

[mitchman]

Way too expensive…regardless of the cost of the truck. $300, installed tops…and in and out in 30 minutes. I want Rivian to focus on value at every turn.

 

[Zoul]

I will play devils advocate on the rivian cost of 700-900. My wife has a dodge Durango it has a similar 2 battery system to early gen 1. Dealership cost for replacement was going to be $800. That was her cost as a warranty admin there. It was not uncommon for battery to fail on 6month old vehicles, and Chrysler only covered it 60% of the time.

That said it seems pretty clear to me that OPs intentions for this thread were to find a diy way to do something about it. Most batteries I've seen in the proper size are ATV/lawnmower batteries. Most do not specify that they are deep cycle, but do have at least the specified 18ah rating. Some are double. I am not sure what effects that could have. Logic would say more is better, but could the bigger battery cause extra stress on the dc-dc inverter? Would it have to be an agm to minimize off gasing, or would standard lead acid be ok?

Anybody have measurements for the battery cavity on a gen 1? Maybe other sizes could be made to fit?
Is there any way we can get a diy section on the forum to help minimize confusion between the bitch fest threads and helpful information?

 

[kallisti5]

Good news and bad news.. i'm starting to suspect the ability for batteries to withstand modest potential current draws is higher than the requirement for them to be "deep cycle"

See https://github.com/kallisti5/rivian...guides/low-voltage/12v-replacement.md#context

I'm measuring 13A passing from DC/DC converter through to the PDU while the heater is running. That 13A isn't coming "from" the battery, however is passing "through" the battery terminal block from the DC/DC converter.

A battery that *can* sustain a short burst of tens of amps feels important.
I got the cheap amazon batteries "mechanically configured", but with the 5.8A "initial" current limit, i'm feeling less confident in them actually working.

The OEM batteries advertise "deep cycle", but they're also 150A peak per the spec sheet which isn't "deep cycle". Maybe that's why they die so quickly for a lot of folks

 

[zefram47]

Got the error on the app a week ago(we were out of country when we got the error) and the car to replace the 12v battery. Unfortunately it's out of warranty(41k miles early 23 model R1S) so had to pay 935$ out of pocket. Quick research online didn't give me the confidence to do it myself so ended up getting it done by the Rivian service center. Failed after 2.5 years of ownership.

So much for the "low-maintenance" cost for EVs.

I'm probably on borrowed time on mine then. Same, early 2023 and 40k miles. Part of me wonders if my truck not sleeping much is related to 12V health, but I haven't gotten any notifications in the truck or the app telling me there's an issue yet.

 

[kallisti5]

Ah ha. https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/slahr12=20c_fr

That feels like a winner. "Deep Cycle", "High Rate". Dimensions are similar to the OEM battery. (only terminal is reversed)

It's also a "local" option which feels nice

 

[Zoidz]

Good news and bad news.. i'm starting to suspect the ability for batteries to withstand modest potential current draws is higher than the requirement for them to be "deep cycle"

See https://github.com/kallisti5/rivian...guides/low-voltage/12v-replacement.md#context

I'm measuring 13A passing from DC/DC converter through to the PDU while the heater is running. That 13A isn't coming "from" the battery, however is passing "through" the battery terminal block from the DC/DC converter.

A battery that *can* sustain a short burst of tens of amps feels important.
I got the cheap amazon batteries "mechanically configured", but with the 5.8A "initial" current limit, i'm feeling less confident in them actually working.

The OEM batteries advertise "deep cycle", but they're also 150A peak per the spec sheet which isn't "deep cycle". Maybe that's why they die so quickly for a lot of folks

A deep cycle battery is fundamentally constructed differently than a regular flooded battery to withstand the repeated deep discharge. It's much more than just intial and peak amps, lol. Those of us with boating experience have seen people with the same "a battery is a battery, deep cycle, meh, machts nichts" attitude - and the result. They spec a deep cycle for a reason.

Have fun with your experiment.

 

[Zoidz]

Ah ha. https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/slahr12=20c_fr

That feels like a winner. "Deep Cycle", "High Rate". Dimensions are similar to the OEM battery. (only terminal is reversed)

It's also a "local" option which feels nice

Where does it say anywhere on that link "Deep Cycle". "High Rate" and "Deep Cycle" are not the same thing. And I'll give you a hint - the following statement from that page is directly opposite how deep cycle batteries are designed.

• This SLA battery has thinner and more plates than a general purpose battery causing the plate structure to deliver power quickly

 

[kallisti5]

Where does it say anywhere on that link "Deep Cycle". "High Rate" and "Deep Cycle" are not the same thing.

You're right.. but with your logic, the OEM battery is also not "deep cycle".

They say it, but delivering 150A per the specs isn't deep cycle

I feel like based on specs, the linked battery fills all the needs and is a similar use case (ups systems. Moderate draw, as long as possible).

 

[kallisti5]

You're right.. but with your logic, the OEM battery is also not "deep cycle".

They say it, but delivering 150A per the specs isn't deep cycle

I feel like based on specs, the linked battery fills all the needs and is a similar use case (ups systems. Moderate draw, as long as possible).

To add a bit more here.. let's look at specs

* OEM 150A max per spec sheet. "Deep cycle"
* OEM changed secondary battery to a capacitor which is definitely not deep cycle.
* Standard group deep cycle battery 5.8A max
* Standard group battery motorcycle 250CCA

Essentially rivian is using a battery in-between deep cycle and high rate.

High rate seems a lot closer to OEM specs.

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